25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 1 Detta dokument assisterar dig i generel installation av värmeåtervinningsfläktar INTRODUKTION. NORRA EUROPA..............................................................................................................................2 VAD GÖR EN FAHRENERGY FTX FÖR MIG? ............................................................................................................2 SPARAD ENERGI ...............................................................................................................................................................2 VILKEN FTX ÄR BÄST? ...................................................................................................................................................3 HÅLL LUFTFLÖDESMOTSTÅNDET LÅGT ..............................................................................................................................3 Allmänna Filter Överväganden.....................................................................................................................................4 PROFESSIONAL OCH DIY (GÖR DET SJÄLV) INSTALLATION ............................................................................4 VAR SKA JAG HÄMTA DEN FRISKA LUFTEN?........................................................................................................................5 Direkt utifrån ................................................................................................................................................................5 Förvärmd Fresh Air ......................................................................................................................................................5 Samla Fri energi ...........................................................................................................................................................6 Energi från källaren (FTXen fungerar ochså som en avfuktare) ..................................................................................7 From The Crawlspace .................................................................................................................................................................8 No Loft And / Or Cellar ..............................................................................................................................................................8 FIND THE BEST PLACE .......................................................................................................................................................9 Short Ducts = Higher Energy Efficiency And Lower Price ..........................................................................................9 Energy Reduction And Efficiency..................................................................................................................................9 SPECIAL INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS .........................................................................................................................9 Make It Look Pleasant ................................................................................................................................................10 TWO STOREY HOUSE HRV INSTALLATION ......................................................................................................................11 ONE STOREY HOUSE HRV INSTALLATION .......................................................................................................................11 AIR VOLUME NEEDED ......................................................................................................................................................12 Buildings Regulations Part F: Ventilation..................................................................................................................12 Radon ..........................................................................................................................................................................12 Smoking And Fireplaces .............................................................................................................................................13 MOISTURE AND CONDENSATION AT 80% HRV SYSTEM EFFICIENCY .............................................................................13 High Temperature Efficiency Gives Low Energy Efficiency. ......................................................................................14 Correct Installation Prevents Condensation...............................................................................................................14 COMBINE HRV AND HP ..................................................................................................................................................15 WALL FAN DISPLACES DUCTS..........................................................................................................................................15 HOLES FOR DUCTS ...........................................................................................................................................................15 INSULATING DUCTS ..........................................................................................................................................................16 How much insulation is needed?.................................................................................................................................16 Duct Insulation............................................................................................................................................................18 INSULATION / INSTALLATION EXAMPLES: ........................................................................................................................18 ATTACHING FAHRENERGY POWER HRV ........................................................................................................................19 ADJUSTING THE AIRFLOW ................................................................................................................................................20 MEASURING THE EFFICIENCY...........................................................................................................................................21 APPENDIX .........................................................................................................................................................................21 TOOLS ..............................................................................................................................................................................21 PARTS ...............................................................................................................................................................................22 INSTRUMENTS ...................................................................................................................................................................23 Efficiency measurements of a system. .........................................................................................................................23 STANDARDS ......................................................................................................................................................................24 MOULD .............................................................................................................................................................................24 LOFT ENERGY MEASUREMENTS .......................................................................................................................................24 AUTOMATIC CONTROL ERROR .........................................................................................................................................25 DISCLAIMER ....................................................................................................................................................................26 Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 2 Introduktion. Norra Europa. Detta installationsdokument gäller för norra Europa. Norra Europa har en kall vinter och en mild sommer. Längre varmare perioder är sällsynta. Vanligen är det kallare utomhus än inomhus. Vad gör en FAHRenergy FTX för mig? 1: Den utväxlar gammal unken luft mot frisk luft uppvärmd av den gamla luften. Det betyder att den friska luften blir uppvärmd av värmen (energien) från den gamla luften. Detta kallas frisk luft värmeåtervinning (FTX). 2: Den hämtar gratis solenergi från vinden / loftet utan extra utstyr eller installation. 3: Den hämtar gratis energi från källaren / krypgrunden. 4: Den avfuktar ditt hus utom extra energi, helt gratis. Du sparar avfuktaren och energi. 5: Den tar bort radon utom extra kostnad: Vanlig radonsanering och energi sparad. 6: Den sparar energi och därmed pengar. Härvid minskas föroreningen. 7: Då den friska luften kontinuerligt utbyter den gamla luften är där ingen trykkändring. Varvid förhindras att gammal luft passerar genom huset. 8: FAHRenergy användar kortrörs konceptet: Korta rör är billigare och lättare att installera Short ducts lose little energy Short ducts need little or no insulation Short ducts give higher financial return Short ducts are easy to hide Short ducts creates less noise FAHRenergy Power HRV is designed for short ducts Sparad Energi En FTX återvinner energien från den gamla luften för denna utblåsas ur huset. Energien som kan sparas huvudsaklig avhänglig av luftvolumen och temperaturskellnaden mellan gammalluften och friskluften som passerar igenom FTXen. Djuptgående undersökning av energibesparningen som kan fås från ett vanligt hus finns på websidan: http://www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install/ Klicka på: Energy Reduction For Existing Homes Se ochså: http://www.flobymetallprodukter.se/Energireduktion2.html Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 3 Vilken FTX är bäst? Vad är bäst: En stor eller två mindra? FAHRenergy Konceptet: Flera små är bättra än en stor • Allmänna installationskostnader halveras genom att använda två eller flera mindre FTXer jämfört med en stor FTX. • Detta koncept reducerar också längden på rör, antal böjar osv. Mindre energi går förlorad och därmed mer energi sparas. • Flera mindre FTXer förhindrar bakterier, virus, jäst och svamp från att flytta från ett område till ett annat. • Buller är lättare att reducera. FAHRenergy’s Power, Ultra, HRV-Solar och Berserk FTXer har utformats för att utnyttja detta koncept Undvik en stort FTX: Standard konceptet använder en stor FTX. Det är dyrt att installera, använder onödigt mycket energi och överför sjukdomar från ett område till ett annat. Buller är svårt att reducera. Håll luftflödesmotståndet Lågt Rör som behövs för att suga ut den gamla luften och utväxla den mot frisk luft bör vara korta och aldrig sträcka sig mellan våningsplan. Korta rör Korta rör är billigare att installera, lättare att rengöra och förlorar mindre energi. Varje meter rör skapar ett motstånd mot flödet av luften. Genom att använda så många FTX enheter som förnuftigt, reduceras rörlängden till ett minimum. Korta rör är lätta att rengöra. Med tiden lägger dammet sig i ventilationssystemet och det måste rengöras. Korta rör kan rengöras med en rör borste, liknande eller identisk med en skorsten sopborste. Långa kanaler med böjar är dyra att rengöra. En kraftfull fläkt behövs för att bistå rengöringen. Inga rör mellan våningsplanen. Varm luft stiger. Om du flyttar varmare luft 2 meter ner behövs åtskilligt mer energi. Då en FTX alltid har en kall och en varm luftström ska du aldrig använda bara en FAHRenergy utan minnst två Power för två våningar. Genom att använda minst en FTX per våning, blir det inga rör mellan våningarna och energi vinsten stiger. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 4 Undvik Böjar Böjar ökar luftmotståndet. Förnuftig utformning av anläggningen minskar antalet böjar till ett minimum. Genom att använda mer än en FTX kan ytterligare böjar reduceras. Allmänna Filter Överväganden Använd endast filter när det är nödvändigt. Varje filter kräver energi för att trycka luften genom filtret. Använd rätt filter. Ju större filterytan är dess mindre kommer luftmotståndet att bli. Under tiden kompenserar detta den extra kostnaden. Det finns ingen anledning att filtrera OAI (gamla luft in i enheten) om du använder FAHRenergy’s FTX. FAHRenergy’s design har ökat det interna luftflödet, vilket förhindrar dammet att fästna i enheten. (De flesta FTX typer behöver ett filter i OAI. Detta minskar den energi som återvinns genom ett sådant FTX-system) Det finns ingen anledning att filtrera OAO (gammal luft ut ur enheten). På landet och nära havet är luften frisk och sund. FAI (frisk luft in i enheten) behöver inte filtreras. Större städer kan ha stora mängdar kolpartiklar från bilavgaser i luften. Ett FAI (friskluft in i enheten) filter kan behövs. Använd en filtertyp som är in-line med röret. Du kommer att behöva lägga en kanalfläkt i röret för att kompensera för luftförlusten. Pollenfilter i FAI (friskluft in i enheten) är nödvändigt om innehavaren är allergisk mot pollen. Använd en filtertyp som är i linje med röret. Du kommer att behöva lägga en kanalfläkt i röret för att kompensera för luftförlusten filtret skapar. Mer om filter: www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install Clicka på: Filters For Ventilation Resultatet: En stor enhet kräver rör som går igenom hela huset. Det är dyrt att installera, ineffektivt och bullrigt. En liten enhet som levererar till ett par rum är lätt att installera. Korta rör räker. För att lämna friskluft till ytterligare rum eller våningar måsta fler enheter används. Detta är effektivare, billigare att installera, har liten inverkan på insidan av huset och buller är lättare att reducerar. Professional Och DIY (gör det själv) Installation En professionell installerar vanligen ett FAHRenergy FTX på 8 timmar. En DIY (gör det själv) person behöver mer tid än en professional. Gör det till en lycklig tid. Ta det lugnt. Stressa inte. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 5 Du kommer förmodligen behöva ett par resor till olika lokala butiker eller köpcentrum för delar och verktyg. Om du använder tre gånger längre än de professionella, kommer din faktiska timlön (efter skatt osv) vara samma som för den professionella! Var ska jag hämta den friska luften? Informationerna nedan är noggrant testade 2006-2013 på flera ställen i Skottland och Sverige. För att uppnå bästa energiåtervinning har FAHRenergy kombinerat teoretiska kunskaper med praktiska tester. Utrustning som används är anemometrar, differens tryck mätare, olika termometrar, IR-termometrar, dataloggrar med temperatur och relativ fuktighet sensorer. Testerna har visat att allmän ventilations kunskap är baserad på felaktiga hörsägen och anekdoter. Om friskluft: www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install/FreshAir.pdf Direkt utifrån Att hämta friskluften direkt utifrån bör undvikas. Energi kommer att förloras och fuktigheten i friskluftsintaget stiger. Läs om andra alternativ nedan och du kommer att förstå varför. Förvärmd Fresh Air Samla friskluften från loftet. Hörsägen och anekdoter om fukt, kondens och mögel frodas. Ett exempel: I Wikipedia angavs att luft vid temperaturer under 0°C förvandlas till is i ventilationssystemet. Luft vid temperaturer under 0°C förvandlas inte till is. Om så var fallet kunde man inte röra sig i 0°C luft! Is är fruset vatten, inte frysta luft. In this document we use years of practical and theoretical knowledge. Genom att kyla luften ökar den relativa fuktigheten eftersom kallare luft "rymmer" mindre vatten. Fukt uppstår när temperaturen har sänkts till eller under daggpunkten. Fukt kan aldrig uppstå när lufttemperaturen ökar eftersom varmare luft "rymmer" mer vatten. Vissa mögel kan torkas bort, men inte när det växer i mattan, väggar osv. Var medveten om att alla mögel är en potentiell hälsokälla. Se appendix, mögel. Ett typiskt hus behöver ca 150m3 luft per timme. När denna volym tas varje timme från loftet, kommer luften på loftet vara så frisk som utomhusluften inom några timmar. Alla hus har rättvis Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 6 rännil ventilation på vinden för att förhindra röta och mögel. Genom utsug av frisk luft från vinden passerar en konstant större volym luft genom loft och således avsevärt förbättrar vindens ventilation. Rot-och mögel har nu mycket mindre chans att bildas än tidigare. Samla Fri energi At ta den friske luften från vinden och använda den för ventilation är inte nytt. Den nya utvecklingen är att använda en FTX (HRV). FTXen återvinner båda värmen från loftet och den gamla unkna luften från huset. Mer energi är sålunda tillgänglig. Under vintern (norra EU) tränger en del energi (värme) igenom isoleringen mellan taket och vinden. Detta höjer loft temperatur lite och minskar fuktigheten. Genom att utvinna den friska luften från loftet och mata den till FTXen, återvinns en del av denna energi av FTXen. Detta har en liknande effekt som en fördubbling av nuvarande isoleringen skulle ha. Mer om detta här: http://www.fahrenergy.co.uk/FAHRenergyAndHeatPump.html Under våren och hösten ganska fri solenergi matas till loftet. Det är vår erfarenhet att uppvärmningstiden minskas med två månader genom att återvinna denna energi med FTXen. Du hittar också att den bättre ventilation minskar den höga loft sommartemperatur och därmed minskar den energi som nu tränger från loftet till rummen genom isoleringen (motsatsen till vintern). Ditt hus hålls svalare utan extra kostnad. En extra bonus: FAHRenergy FTX växlar automatiskt till kyla när utomhustemperaturen är större än innetemperaturen. En FTX sparar också energi under varma perioder förutsatt sitt CoP (Coefficient of Power) är hög. FAHRenergy Power har en mycket hög CoP på över 20. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 7 Friskluftsinsektsfilter. Flexibel aluminiumrör . Buller dämpare (rörljuddämpare). HRV Power on the loft Insulated cardboard box Fresh air in from the loft (adjustable) Notera friskluftsintaget från loftet. Denna typ sprider den kylaren friske luften över en del av taket. Det hjälper till att utjämna temperaturen i rummet och ger en fin fräsch känsla. Set från ovan är FAHRenergy Power med 100mm anslutningar och ingen skyddande hölje. Det är den billigaste versionen. Hemgjord isolerade pappskydd som visas ovan minskar installationskostnaden till ett minimum. Isoleringen minskar ytterligare värmeförlust hos FTXen när temperaturen faller. FAHRenergy Power+ och FAHRenergy Ultra+ skyddas av ett aluminiumhölje och är utrustad med 125mm röranslutningar (aborter). Denna version är dyrare och är avsedda för mindre avskilda utrymmen än ett loft. FAHRenergy HRV i en aluminium hölje Energi från källaren (FTXen fungerar ochså som en avfuktare) En källare, i diskussionen nedan, kan vara en icke-ockuperade utrymmet nedanför huset utan någon uppvärmning kanske bortsett från en panna. Vilken särskild källarutrymme bör användas beror på lokala förhållanden. Pannrummet eller grovkök skulle vara det första valet. I ett tvåvåningshus är det klokt att ta den friska luften för övervåningen från loftet. För bottenvåningen bör den tas ur källaren, om sådan finns. Detta koncept reducerar installationskostnaden då installationstid och material reduceras till ett minimum. Det är också en mindre påträngande installation med en högre effektivitet. Rörena bör göras så korta och raka som möjligt av ovanstående skäl. Hörsägen, anekdoter och ogrundade antaganden gör att många tror en källare är fuktig, unken och ohälsosam. Utan tillräckligt med frisk luft är den det. Inte så när en kontinuerlig tillräcklig friskluftsvolymen passerar genom källaren. Även en normalt mycket fuktig källare blir acceptabelt torrt i några få dagar. Luften kommer att bli frisk. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 8 Genom en FTX samlas ganska myket energi från källaren på vintern. Att ta energi från källaren under vintern kyler källaren men inte mycket. När källartemperatur sjunker under jämviktstemperaturen, kommer energi strömma in från omgivningen. Om en källare förlora för mycket energi på grund av dåliga fönster och brist på isolering då förbättra fönstren och isolera väggarna med 7cm polyuretan (eller liknande) till 0,6 meter under marknivån. Detta är tillräckligt för att förhindra frysning av vattenledningar i de flesta områden. Under sommaren kommer källaren att ha en något högre temperatur än tidigare på grund av den förbättrade inflödet av frisk luft. Detta hjälper till att minska fukt i källaren. Den konstant friske luften som passerar genom källaren gör at den motsvarar den relativa fuktigheten på utsidan. Detta minskar ytterligare fukt och därmed kondensation. Endast mycket varma, fuktiga dagar kan leda till kondens. Sådana dagar är sällsynta i norra Europa. Vår mångåriga erfarenhet har visat att det inte behövs avfuktare förutsatt att FTXen är aktiv 24 timmar om dygnet och korrekt installerad. HRV installed at this time Note the drop in moisture (RH%) from 100% to 90% in a couple of days after the HRV installation. The next four years RH% stayed below 90%: No cellar moisture since the HRV installation The yearly cellar temperature with no heating in the cellar and an active HRV in Sweden. Winter 2010 dropped to –24°C yet no frost in the cellar. From The Crawlspace When a two-storey house has no cellar but a crawl space, the fresh air for the ground level should be excavated from the crawl space. The function on energy collection and dehumidifying action is as for the cellar. It is important that foundation vents are open and free for the air to pass. The volume of the crawl space should be smaller than the hourly air volume exchanged by the HRV. Spider web and dust in the vents reduce the flow of air! Keep the vents clean. No Loft And / Or Cellar FAHRenergy Power HRV Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 9 Where there is will there is way. FAHRenergy Power HRV needs little space. A kitchen cupboard will do. You may even hide it behind a curtain and add a Smokers Corner. The OAI intake holds an ashtray. Find The Best Place First we have to understand the basics: Old Air Out (OAO) and Fresh Air In (FAI) resides on the COLD side. Fresh Air Out (FAO) and Old Air In (OAI) resides on the WARM side. In this document OUT is out of the unit and IN is into the unit. Short Ducts = Higher Energy Efficiency And Lower Price The energy supplied to the fans forces the air through the ducts. As the air passes through the ducts, energy is lost. The less energy we lose the higher our return will be. Keep the ducts as short and straight as possible. Preferably less than 2 meters of ducting for each of the 4 terminations (duct connections) of the FAHRenergy Power HRV for 100mm ducts and 3.2 meters for 125mm ducts. As the duct length increases the air volume decreases. Less air volume carries less energy. Of course fan energy could be increased but this increases the loss and reduces the system CoP. Energy Reduction And Efficiency See http://www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install/Energy_Reduction_For_Existing_Homes.pdf Special Installation Considerations FAHRenergy Power HRV’s are designed to achieve highest efficiency at the lowest installation and energy cost. To reduce the energy consumption the fans are of low pressure type. Sufficient to deliver to 90m3 of fresh air while extracting 90m3 of old air (i.e. it moves 180m3 of air) per hour. FAHRenergy Power is not designed to press fresh warm air down to a colder, lower level. Should you need this you will need to add an assisting fan. The reason: Warm air rises. To force it down extra energy is needed. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 10 Distributing warm air (max 45°C) from a heater of any kind down to a lower level demands energy determined by the temperature difference between the two levels as well as the air volume needed. Avoid the above situation. Place the HRV at the level it shall serve. Make It Look Pleasant Although inlet and outlet vents may be bought for small not all fit into the style of the room. money, The inlet vent on the picture distributes the fresh air across ceiling. Being a part of the lamp makes it fit right in. the Click the link for a large picture Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc http://www.fahrenergy.co.uk/Do_something_today.pdf Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 11 Two Storey House HRV Installation Extract old air from moist and smelly rooms. Place the FAHRenergy Power HRV in the loft, attic, cellar and/or crawlspace. Supply fresh air to lounges and rooms. One Storey House HRV Installation Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 12 Extract old air from moist and smelly rooms. Ridge vent Place the FAHRenergy Power HRV in the loft, attic, cellar and/or crawlspace. Supply fresh air to lounges and rooms. Air Volume Needed As a good rule of thumb an air volume of 1.25m3 per m2 dwelling per hour is adequate air exchange for a private home. This covers a fair number of persons occupying the dwelling. Buildings Regulations Part F: Ventilation The government ventilation examples obtained from the link below are obviously made by bureaucrats. By shifting through it you will find that 25l/sec for a 84m2 heated area (dwelling area) is needed. This corresponds to 1.1m3 of fresh air per hour per m2 of dwelling area (2 persons occupying the house). http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADF_2010.pdf Assure Loft, Cellar And Crawl-space Are Adequitely Ventilated It is our experience that loft and cellar are sufficiently ventilated if the air is exchanged at least once every hour. At this rate mouldy and moist air is quickly removed and will be as fresh as the outside air within hours. The crawl space may need more air if the ground is excessively moist. Radon Possibly the best way to keep a house below the radon limit of 200beq/m3 is by sufficient ventilation. As the volume of fresh air will be larger than demanded by the building regulation, you will need a HRV to recover the heat from the old air. In many cases you will need twice the normal air volume to stay below the radon limit. Without a HRV too much energy is lost. More here: http://www.fahrenergy.co.uk/Radon.html Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 13 Dust In The Rooms Radon mitigation, through HRV ventilation, also removes the dust suspended in the air. This is valuable as the radon daughters that are created through the radioactive decay of radon gases, become attached to dust particles which then enters the lungs through breathing. One dust particle may have several radon daughters attached and thus the danger is similarly increased. As it is the radon daughters that are dangerous through alpha ray emissions less dust particles means less radon daughters in the lungs. The danger is mitigated. Smoking And Fireplaces Smoking and burning fireplaces creates small carbon particles that especially attract radon daughters. Due to this both smoking and fireplaces should be omitted when radon is present. The danger from carbon particles is also reduced as the HRV ventilation system removes these particles. See: http://www.msha.gov/illness_prevention/healthtopics/hhicm09.htm In some homes the radon influx from cracks, pipes, electrical wires and other installations that enters the building is too high. By finding and closing these places it is possible to reduce the radon level below the current limit. Moisture And Condensation At 80% HRV System Efficiency Moisture is water molecules suspended in the air. A conglomeration of these molecules become droplets. The relative volume of water the air holds depends on the air temperature. This we call Relative Humidity (RH). At 100% RH the humidity condenses to water. As such water condensates build up moisture, mildew, mould and rot may appear. This we have to prevent. Some simple methods make it quite easy to prevent condensation in our ventilation system. First we must know a bit about relative humidity. A rule of thumb helps: For every degree Celsius the RH changes 3% When temperature increase the RH is reduced When temperature decrease the RH is increased Example-1: Outside temperature is 5°C. Outside humidity is 99%. As this air is heated (increased) to the inside house temperature of 20°C, the relative humidity (RH) of this air will be reduced. The temperature increase is 20-5 = 15°C. The new RH will be reduced by 15*3= 45 RH%. Thus the new RH will be the old RH – the RH reduction = 99-45 = 54%. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 14 As the HRV constantly exchanges the inside old air with fresh, preheated air, any humidity added by the occupier is small. At 80% temperature recovery the inside 20°C is reduced by 20-5 = 15°C multiplied by the efficiency (80% means 80/100). This is 15*0.8= 12°C. The OAO humidity is thus increased by 12*3 = 36%. This makes the OAO humidity 54+36 = 90%. There are still 10% to go minus the humidity added by the occupier before condensation in the OAO (Old Air Out of the HRV) may occur. This is an acceptable margin. At 80% HRV system efficiency the overall energy efficiency is high! High Temperature Efficiency Gives Low Energy Efficiency. Had the system efficiency been higher than 80%, the humidity margin would be smaller and excessive condensation could occur. To obtain a higher HRV efficiency many manufacturers mitigate the condensation problem by adding electric heaters. As such heaters are of much less efficiency than most other heating systems, the added HRV efficiency is wasted and the control of the heating system of the house is lost. Of course many HRV manufacturers add electronic control systems to reduce the use of the heaters and thus compensate the heating consumption. The effect is poor and added electronics make these devices more vulnerable to failure and fire. The CoP is very low. High HRV system efficiency reduces the overall energy efficiency! One may wonder why such designs are made. The reason is more understandable when one considers the past low energy prices. The customer would say that the incoming fresh air is cold as it is colder than the inside air and moving. By adding a heater the customer is made to believe the apparatus is improved. It is much more difficult to perceive that the recovered energy is used for condensation mitigation. At todays energy prices and demand for energy reduction this technique is questionable. Such a design carries a considerable price increase. Due to this it must ventilate the entire house. It becomes larger and more expensive to install. Correct Installation Prevents Condensation Obtain the old air (OAI) (Old Air Into the HRV) from a heated room and the fresh air (FAI) (Fresh Air Into the HRV) from a non heated space such as the loft, attic, crawl space or a cool cellar. This ensures that OAO (Old Air Out of the HRV) will be warmer than FAI. OAO temperature must be higher than the FAI temperature This will prevent condensation in the HRV as the air is not cooled below the dew point.. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 15 The above is correct for north Europe. On some rare days in north Europe the outside temperature might be warmer than the inside temperature for a couple of hours a day. If this is associated with very moist outside air, condensation in the HRV could occur as the FAI is cooled by the lower temperature of the OAI. Should it happen you may switch off the HRV during such a period. During 5 years and hundreds of installations in Scotland an Sweden no condensation have been observed in a HRV installed as stated above. The outside temperature ranged from -25°C to +32°C. Condensation Tray In areas where condensation is observed or expected one should place condensation tray under the HRV. Attach a hose that leads from the the outside. The FAHRenergy HRV’s should be place such that the fans are up Combine HRV And HP A Heat Pump (HP) is an air conditioning unit in mode: It heats inside and cools outside. This is achieved by an inside and outside unit. This heat pump mode has value during cold a tray to high. The picture shows the fresh air duct from the FAHRenergy unit supplying the heat pump. reverse periods. The inside unit passes the inside air through its heated radiator and thus heats up the inside air. As the inside air normally becomes filled with dust, the inside unit is provided with a coarse dust filter. A couple of weeks suffice to cover the radiator with dust. The efficiency is drastically reduced. By providing the heat pump with fresh air from the FAHRenergy heat recovery unit the dust problem is virtually eliminated. Maintenance has been reduced from weeks to month. A bit more about this is found here: http://www.fahrenergy.co.uk/FAHRenergyAndHeatPump.html Wall Fan Displaces Ducts In some cases less energy is used by blowing fresh air from one room to another by means of a fan rather than by ducting. More here: http://www.fahrenergy.co.uk/WallFixtureGrid.jpg Holes For Ducts Before you make any hole in any wall check for wires, pipes and beams in the Instruments for sensing wires, metal and wooden beams are available in most building and DIY stores. The picture shows such a device Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc wall. Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 16 You will have to get used to such an instrument. Try it out on a wall you know. Observe that some wall claddings change the sensitivity. Use common sense. Check for wires, metal and beams. Avoid making holes in beams. It may become a large task to make a hole in a 12cm beam. Solid wooden walls are common in Scandinavia. On such a wall you will have to work. Masonry Use a 102mm or 105mm hole saw for 100mm ducts. Common holes saws are for wood, gypsum board and similar. If you need a hole through a thick wooden wall you will need to assist the saw with a chisel. Concrete To make a hole in concrete use a Concrete Core drilling machine. The picture show one having an attachment which makes holes in floors easier. such Hire the machine. Many building stores hire such tools. Fix The Duct Every so often you will have to fix the duct. It is easy and often possible to do this by means of metal bands with holes. Insulating Ducts Some ducts needs to be insulated to prevent loss of energy and building of condensation. Use always a mouth filter when you work with insulation and in dusty conditions. 1: A duct surface that are colder than the space it passes through may create condensation on its external surface (cold duct that passes through a warmer space). It will need insulation to prevent condensation. 2: A warm duct which passes through a cold space will need insulation to preserve the heat and prevent internal condensation. How much insulation is needed? The insulation quality depends on the type of insulation material and thickness. Below is a general table of heat loss in watt per m2 per degree Celsius, as a function of the insulation thickness. Mineral wool 5cm loses 0.8[w/m2C] 10cm loses 0.4[w/m2C] 20cm loses 0.2[w/m2C] 30cm loses 0.13[w/m2C] 40cm loses 0.1[w/m2C] Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 17 Insulation Of A Standard HRV Installation In reference to the picture to the right: The OAI and FAO are carrying warm air. They are a yellowish colour. The part of the warm ducts that are on the cold loft insulated. shown in must be If the lowest loft temperature is -9°C and the internal duct temperature is 14°C. then we have a temperature difference of 23°C. The duct is 1m long and has a diameter of 100mm. This gives a duct surface of 0.31m2. By using a 5cm thick mineral wool we lose 0.8*0.31 = 0.25W per °C. The loss would be 0.25*23 = 5.8W. During an average 100 days winter at a temperature of 2°C outside and 20°C in the house the duct would lose 100*18*0.25*24 = 10.8kWh per duct meter. As a common FAHRenergy installation uses a total of 3m ducting on the warm side (OAI, FAO) the loss would be 3*10.8 = 32.4kWh. This becomes twice as much during a whole year = 64.8kWh, which is acceptable. Without the duct insulation the installation would be near worthless and create condensation. In reference to the picture: FAI (shown blue) excavates the fresh air from the loft. If the duct is short no insulation is needed. OAO (shown blue) expels the old heat exchanged air. As this still has some energy left it may be warmer than the loft air. The OAO may be cooled by the colder loft air. Condensation could occur inside the duct unless it is short. If it is longer than 1m, insulation or a fair gradient which lets the condensate run out, is needed. During northern summers the temperature difference is relatively small and thus the RH change. Condensation is unlikely on short ducts. A HRV that is placed in a cold room needs some insulation or condensation may occur. Short ducts are cheap and easily installed Short ducts lose little energy Short ducts need little or no insulation Short ducts give higher financial return Short ducts are easy to hide Short ducts creates less noise FAHRenergy Power HRV is designed for short ducts Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 18 Duct Insulation In loft spaces existing insulation may be used. Simply place the ducts that need to be insulated under the existing insulation. This is a quick, cheap and very effective method. Mark the position of the ducts that are hidden under the insulation to prevent unexpected visitors from walking on the ducts. In reference to the picture to the right: Under the floorboards the HRV has been positioned a box for easier access. FAI insect hood will be attached here (cold side) in The two warm side ducts are placed in the existing insulation between the ceiling of the room underneath and the floorboards. The entire installation creates very little obstructions and is insulated at no extra cost. The floorboards above the HRV are modified to allow for easy access. The OAI (Old Air Into the HRV) and the OAO (Old Air Out of the HRV) use the existing toilet extraction duct. The duct was simply cut such that the one side would be OAI and the other OAO. FAI (Fresh Air In) was extracted from the loft. An insect hood was placed on the intake. FAO (Fresh Air Out) was led to two room through holes cut in the ceiling. The power supply was placed on the loft, out of the way of kids and pets. Insulation / Installation Examples: http://www.fahrenergy.co.uk/Examples.html Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 19 Attaching FAHRenergy Power HRV The transport / installation brackets may be directly attached to the floor, wall or ceiling. I suggest that the installation brackets are attached to a board having a minimum size of 590mm*285mm. The board may be of MDF chip-wood or plywood. Place the HRV with the installation brackets attached to it on the board. Mark the 8 holes for the installation brackets. Remove the brackets from the HRV and screw them onto the board using very short and small screws. Do NOT tighten the screws. Ensure that the bracket can wobble. The HRV weighs less than 4kg. A 6mm thick board and similarly small screws are strong enough to hold it. To fix the board on a wall you need one hole at each end of the board. Attach the HRV to the board by gently pushing the installation brackets ‘over’ the HRV terminations. A If the HRV shall sit on a wall or a ceiling you will need to fix the brackets to the terminations of the HRV. Do this by drilling a 3mm hole through the bracket where it attaches to the termination and screw in a 3.5mm to 4mm thick small screw. See point ‘A’ on the picture. The bracket is now prevented from losing its grip on the HRV To be able to remove the HRV from the brackets the first 30cm of ducting which connects to the brackets must be flexible. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 20 Deciding FAI, FAO, OAI And OAO The 2 fans blow into the HRV. Either of these terminations may be only appointed as FAI or OAI. The 2 remaining terminations may only be appointed as FAO or OAO The delivered FAI, FAO, OAI, OAO adhesive labels are to be attached to the corresponding selected termination. There are only 2 options: Warm to the right Warm to the left Adjusting The Airflow The best energy recovery is obtained at maximum airflow of the FAHRenergy Power HRV. FAHRenergy Power HRV allows for selecting the airflow of balanced old / fresh air: At 13.5V around 90m3 of old and fresh air is moved (a total of 180 m3). Noise < 54dBA Noise < 47dBA At 9V around 65m3 of old and fresh air is moved (a total of 130 m3). 3 3 Noise < 45dBA At 6V around 50m of old and fresh air is moved (a total of 100 m ). Adjust the airflow in the installed system by adjusting the FAI and AOI. Adjustable air disc valves and diffusers both round and square are available from your ventilation store. Attempt to obtain the same FAO and OAO airflow. The best result is obtained by the installation design. If the duct length of fresh air and old air are the same and the bends are minimised you probably have a good balance by design. Measuring The Airflow Important: All electronic instruments are sensitive to magnetic pulses. Due to this you will find that you cannot measure with the instrument close to the ECM (Electronically Commutated Motors) which are used in FAHRenergy’s HRV’s. Measuring the airflow is not easy at low airspeeds. Low airspeeds are used in FAHRenergy’s HRV’s to obtain maximum energy recovery (minimum loss) and low ventilation noise. The simplest and cheapest method to evaluate the balance of the ventilation system is by using a large, soft plastic bag. Measure the time it takes to fill it to around 50%. Measure the volume of air Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 21 you have filled into the bag. Divide the volume with time and you have the ‘airflow’. As it is the same bag, the airflow restrictions the bag creates, are the same for both measurements. This method also gives an idea of the airflow provided you have some knowledge of the restrictions to the airflow the bag created. Vane anemometers are relative cheap with prices from £70. Most vane anemometers are inferior at low airspeeds. You will get a reading but the precision is insufficient. Measuring The Efficiency See Measuring Ventilation Energy Efficiency http://www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install/MeasuringEfficiency.pdf Appendix Tools Avoid anything with cables when you work in tight spaces. Drill bits As you will need several drill bit sizes a cheap drill bit container may be bought in most DIY stores. Use such a container for future drill bit storing. Battery powered drill Keep the costs down. Use as cheap a drill as possible. Many low cost types suffices. Buy at least two or even three. Should you forget one somewhere the loss is affordable. Hole Saws 44mm, 50mm, 102mm, 105mm and 127mm will make most of the necessary holes in a standard installation. Screw driver and nut driver bits. You should use the battery powered drill as a screwdriver. A couple of hand screwdrivers could be handy Head lamp for dark spaces Use a LED headlamp for dark spaces. At least a 1W LED is needed. As you will have to move around a common work lamp is mainly in the way. Portable work bench Battery powered tiger saw Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 22 Parts Wood and gypsum screw assortiment Self drilling and tapping screw for nut driver bit for duct assembly Round metal ducts Flexible aluminium ducts Chimney ventilation ducts are commonly flexible aluminium ducts of a good quallity. A bit more expensive but not as flimsy as the types commonly available. Flexible plastic ducts Round PVC ducts Square PVC ducts Noise reducing ducts (duct muffler, silencer) Holed metal band 90° bend Duct connector Drill bits Holed metal band. Grills, Flanges 90° and 45° bend. Duct connections Parts shown to the right are found in common DIY stores. Note that square ducts often have a smaller area than a 100mm round duct. Due to this maximum usable length is reduced to 1m. Duct area should be 78cm2 or more. 100mm to 125mm adapter ducts (reducer) T and Y joints Where can I get ventilation parts? At ventilation retailers, DIY stores and building retailers. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 23 Instruments Efficiency measurements of a system. See: www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install and click on Temperature And Energy Measurements Anemometer http://uk.rsonline.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5066033 The link is for a pocket vane anemometer. It is relatively cheap but acceptable. Such an anemometer gives some idea of the airflow in an installed system. Note that the air in a ventilation system often is not laminar. Exact airflow measurements are thus quite difficult to obtain. You will have to make several measurements using a vane anemometer at different angles of the duct to get a feel for the airflow. Another way to obtain the airflow (air volume per time unit) is placing a very soft, reasonable large plastic bag around the duct (at least 50 litres). Just fill the bag to max 50%. Measure the time used and measure the volume in the bag. Divide the volume with the time and you have the airflow per time unit. Of course this method restricts the airflow such that the actual result is somewhat larger than measured using this method. Wire, Metal And Beam Tester Instruments for sensing wires, metal and wooden beams are available in most DIY stores. The picture shows such a device. The price ranges from £25 to £100. Moisture meter Any DIY store It is always a good idea to have some knowledge of the moisture in walls beams before the ventilation is activated. Measuring later one develops a good feel for the value of ventilation. building and and A moisture meter using LED as indicator is cheap. It shos moisture present or not. Infrared thermometer http://uk.rsonline.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5168454 An infrared thermometer is not cheap. It is a good immediate temperature indicator. A standard thermometer cannot be used to obtain temperature differences. To measure such you will need a datalogger. USB thermal and humidity datalogger http://uk.rsonline.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=4901064&cm_vc=av_uk A USB datalogger is the only one which may be left in a ventilation duct and elsewhere. It will collect data for up to one year. A data curve is automatically written as the data are transferred to your PC. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 24 Not everyone benefits from a datalogger. Two or more dataloggers are needed to obtain temperature and humidity differences. These might then be used to calculate energy movements and thus energy recovered. You may also get instruments from: Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/store-locator Farnell http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp?CMP=KNC-GUK-FUK-GENPFB&s_kwcid=TC|13123|farnell||S|e|7342426749 Standards Recommended volume of fresh air per hour: 1.25m3 per square meter occupied space. Filter standards. See www.fahrenergy.org.uk/install Click on Filters For Ventilation Mould Daily Mail July 2010: …the deaths of actress Brittany Murphy and her British screenwriter husband Simon Monjack might have been caused by mould… http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-1297862/Brittany-Murphy-Mould-home-kill-actresssdeath-linked-fungus-LA-mansion.html Extracts from the article: …..Stachybotrys chartarum, which is also known as the toxic mould. This fungus may produce spores which are poisonous by inhalation. ‘The common places for mould to grow in houses is wallpaper, flooring, behind wall tiles and on window frames,’ explains Professor Richardson. It may seem extraordinary, but in fact mould in the home is a common health problem, affecting tens of thousands of people in the UK, explains Malcolm Richardson, Professor of medical mycology (the study of mould) at the University of Manchester. Professor Roy Watling, an authority on fungi and formerly head of mycology at the Royal Botanical Garden, Edinburgh, says: 'When you walk around on the damp carpet, mould spores are released into the atmosphere, which you can then inhale. For Christine and John Frost, from Mansfield in Derbyshire, it comes as no surprise to learn that mould can have a devastating effect on health. Christine, 62, first noticed black mould on a wall in their living room three-and-a-half years ago….. ….The mould in our house totally destroyed us. It was just horrendous.’ Constant ventilation is necessary. Due to the high cost of heating, Heat Recovery Ventilation is valuable. It is a very effective method to obtain fresh air at a very low running cost. Loft Energy Measurements Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 25 The above diagram shows the extra energy captured. The RH is safely above the dew point. Automatic Control Error Quite many ventilation and heat pump (air conditioning) devices are fitted with automatic controls which are manipulated by the user via a remote control. A ventilation system for a common home does not need such smart controls. It should be set up once and then left to work. Today’s heating systems are optimised by various automatic controls. As they are controlled by temperature sensors they are easily ‘confused’. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014 25Jan2014 www.fahrenergy.co.uk P: 26 An example: The occupier enjoys the fireplace. As the fireplace heated up the temperature in the room increased. The inside unit of the heat pump was rather near the ceiling and the control (air-conditioning unit) switched to cooling. The more the fireplace heated the more the HP cooled. The occupier had not perceived this. He became very surprised when he found his electricity bill increased after the HP installation. The error was to have the HP (AC unit) set to ‘automatic’ by the manufacturer. In fact, the use of the HP remote control was sufficiently complicated to prevent correct use by the owner. This is not a special case. It is quite common. Most HP (AC) may only be controlled through the remote controls. Often the LCD screen and the writing on the buttons are too small. Quite many people cannot read such small letters. Only Necessary Electronics In FAHRenergy HRV FAHRenergy HRV’s are not fitted with compromising electronics. When FAHRenergy HRV’s are installed correctly they function correctly and do not interfere with controlled heating systems. Remote control is not necessary. A yearly CoP of over 20, i.e. the recovered energy is 20 times larger than the energy consumed, is the result. No complex manual is necessary. No remote controls. Less potential errors. Disclaimer This manual is advisory. It contains all information needed for the trained person. Professional installation demands a FAHRenergy installation training. All manuals prior to this edition are void and null. Professionel_Och_DIY_Installation.doc Copyright 2005 to 2014